The last convertible I had was in 1993. It was a 1972 Cadillac Eldorado that was fire engine red with white leather interior. Saying that I felt like a pimp in that thing would be an understatement, but when the top was down and that 501 cu inch big block was humming, life was good. For many motorists owning a convertible is a way of life. They provide us with unrestricted open air freedom while at the same time letting us tan up for the upcoming summer months. Just about any new drop top your going to come across is going to cost you well north of the $25,000 mark which got me thinking about what could be had for a bit cheaper. Below is a listing of 10 wonderful used convertibles that range in price from $12,000-$20,000. They’re all good to look at, provide one with the latest and greatest in safety features and can be had at these prices with around 25,000 miles on the clock. So, if you’re in the market for a new used car, sans the roof, click through and take a look at what you could be driving around in this summer.

• 2008 Mazda MX-5 Miata

Price: $13,825-$19,200
Horsepower: 166 @ 6700 RPM
Torque: 140 @ 5000 RPM

• 2006 Toyota Camry Solara Convertible

Price: $14,050-$19,275
Horsepower: 225 @ 5600 RPM
Torque: 240 @ 3600 RPM

• 2002 Porsche Boxster

Price: $12,037-$18,287
Horsepower: 228 @ 6300 RPM
Torque: 192 @ 4750 RPM

• 2007 Ford Mustang (V6)

Price: $13,750-$19,000
Horsepower: 210 @ 5300 RPM
Torque: 240 @ 3500 RPM

• 2004 BMW 325Ci

Price: $13,475-19,975
Horsepower: 184 @ 6000 RPM
Torque: 175 @ 3500 RPM

• 2006 Pontiac G6

Price: $13,125-$18,225
Horsepower: 201 @ 5600 RPM
Torque: 222 @ 3200 RPM

• 2005 Mini Cooper S

Price: $15,375-$20,525
Horsepower: 168 @ 6000 RPM
Torque: 162 @ 4000 RPM

• 2007 Chrysler Crossfire

Price: $12,925-$18,700
Horsepower: 215 @ 5700 RPM
Torque: 229 @ 3000 RPM

• 2007 Saab 9-3 Convertible

Price: $12,575-$18,175
Horsepower: 210 @ 5500 RPM
Torque: 221 @ 2500 RPM

• 2005 Audi A4 1.8T

Price: $13,400-$19,000
Horsepower: 170 @ 5900 RPM
Torque: 166 @ 1950 RPM

Source: nadaguides.com

I was recently speaking with a buddy of mine who was in the market for a used car for his 17 year old daughter. He was asking me about not only what I thought he should get her, but why. We talked about safety, performance, size, economy and reliability. Basically all the mainstays that anyone would want to know about. Since we were talking about a 17 year old girl, the first thing that came to his mind was how to prevent her from texting while driving. My answer… get her a car with a manual transmission. For some reason this never entered his mind, but when I said it you could see the light bulb go off in his head. If you’ve got one hand on the wheel and the other on the gear lever, then the probability of you texting someone goes down exponentially.

My next suggestion was to get her something that was relatively small with moderate performance and standard safety features like stability control, traction control, anti-lock brakes and of course, airbags. Many newer cars built after 2007 have these features standard, but make sure you do your homework before any purchase is made. Take a look at cars like the Volkswagen Jetta, Scion XB and the Hyundai Elantra for starters. These are all cars that would fit the bill as far as reliability and economy go. These cars have manageable performance levels and are small enough so that one isn’t carting around their entire graduating class.

I also suggested some sort of driver education course as a mandatory edition to his master plan of keeping his daughter safe. For that I directed him to a program called, “Survive the Drive” that’s given by a gentleman named Bob Green. It not only educates teens on everything that they need to know about driver safety, but it builds their confidence behind the wheel. In all honesty, a course like this is more important then the car you finally choose for your child and can, in the end, save their lives if a mishap occurs. I have no doubt that watching a child drive on their own for the first time can be a harrowing and nerve racking experience for a parent. However, if that child is educated on the rules of the road and is given insight into the pitfalls that can befall them, they will be much better prepared for when they take that first solo drive.

Here are some great links for more information on teen driver safety:
• National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)
• Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
• National Safety Council
• Consumer Reports List of Recommended Used Cars for Teens.

Prices for premium fuel are bouncing over $4.25 here in the Northeast, which means I’m seriously considering picking up a fuel efficient beater car to have as a daily driver. I’m looking at everything from used Toyota Tercel’s to Honda Accord’s and everything in between. There is however one major catch – my budget is $1000.00. Obviously a 1k budget eliminates anything that one would consider to be “nice”, but as I already have a nice car, I’m not too worried about its looks. What I am concerned with however is how the car runs and has it been serviced regularly. Now some of you may be thinking that you can’t find a good car for $1000.00, but I completely disagree. In fact I’m betting I can find a good old lady car for a G-note right in my neighborhood if I look hard enough.

First off you’ve got to lower your expectations about driving anything nice. Setting your sights nice and low means that things can only get better. Next you must identify your targets, for example stick with budget cars from the mid-1980′s to the mid-1990′s and you’ll be fine. Cars like the aforementioned Toyota Tercel, old Buick Century’s, Regal’s and Chevy Cavalier’s are a dime a dozen and all get upwards of 25-30 mpg on 87 octane fuel. Once you’ve identified your targets look at multiple cars, throw out a low ball price and go from there. My bet is that you’ll get something better than you originally thought and come in under budget. Stay tuned because I’ll keep you posted as to what I find.

Consumer Reports is one of the few publications that helps keep us on the straight and narrow when it comes to buying everyday items. They review everything from toasters to automobiles and in doing so help us make educated decisions when purchasing everyday products. Their automobile reviews in particular are very good, as they’re not beholden to sponsors or manufacturers. Recently they put together a list of the best used cars that you can purchase for your teenager, while at the same time interjecting some very helpful hints that some parents may overlook. For example, it’s always better to purchase a later model car with updated safety features such as multiple airbags and stability control. Look for cars that are reasonably powerful, but not overly so. For instance a powerful car (especially for young men) can encourage speeding and is not recommended. They also recommend striking mini-vans and SUV’s from your list, citing that a bus load of teenagers is never a good thing, something that I wholeheartedly agree with.

In the end their list looks something like this, but I’d still recommend heading over there to check out the full article.

2011 Best cars for teens
•  Acura TSX (2004 or later)
• Ford Focus sedan (2009 or later)
• Hyundai Sonata (2006 or later)
• Hyundai Elantra SE (2008 or later)
• Mazda3 Touring (2007 or later)
• Scion xB (2008 or later)
• Volkswagen Jetta (2007 or later)
• Volkswagen Rabbit (2007 or later)

So you’re not the type to buy or lease a new vehicle, and even “Certified Pre-Owned” cars are more coin than you’re willing to part with. So, Mr. Cash-and-carry, how can you avoid getting ripped off when buying a used car? There are no absolutes, and even well respected manufacturers build lemons from time to time, but here are my top ten pointers for buying a good used car at a fair price:

1) Know EXACTLY what you want. Don’t shop for a “sporty car” or a “sedan” or a “pickup truck”. Shop for a 2000 to 2005 Mazda Miata, or a 2001 – 2003 VW Passat or a 1997 – 2000 Ford F150. If you stay focused, you are less likely to be lured into buying a car you have NOT done research on just because it appears to be cleaner or in better shape. Focus, people!

2) Do your homework. Once you decide on a year, brand and model, learn all you can about it. Sites such as Edmunds and Kelley Blue Book are good places to start and can give you a feel for regional pricing of the car you’re shopping for. Better yet, brand and model specific forums will give you much more in-depth information on reliability, problem areas, tuning and prices. Google is your friend here, and I recommend you visit several message boards to get a feel for the type of information on each.

Hmm, why has a five year old car had ten owners?

3) Once you’ve found a vehicle, Carfax is your friend. Many sellers now offer a Carfax report as proof that their vehicle is worth buying; don’t be afraid to ask for one, especially if you’re buying from a dealer. Running a Carfax report on a specific VIN will tell you how many owners the car has had, whether it’s been in any accidents, what recalls the car has been subjected to and what the mileage should be. Walk away from any cars that have bad histories (major accidents, many owners, unclear mileage, etc.), but be aware that Carfax is not omniscient: accidents, if unreported to police or insurance companies, will not show up in a Carfax report.

4) Remember, cars purchased at dealers will cost more money than private party sales. The trade off is that you should have SOME recourse with a dealer should the car turn out to be a lemon. Many new car dealers offer limited warranties on used cars, which may give you some piece of mind. New car dealers can also be a source for “lease take back” vehicles, which can be a good choice for a used car.

I'm in sales, trust me

5) Beware of small used car dealers. Not all of ‘em are shady, but many of them are. Never buy from a used car dealer unless you do the research on the vehicle you’re buying first. Word of mouth counts for a lot here, too – if a friend or neighbor can recommend a used car dealer from personal experience they may be worth a visit. Megalots like Carmax are the exception here; their vehicles are carefully bought from customers and auctions and inspected prior to sale. You’ll generally pay more than a private party sale, but the megalots generally give you a limited warranty.

And I got it for six grand! The lights and radio don't work, and the carpet smells moldy...

6) NEVER buy a vehicle with a salvage title. A salvage title means that an insurance company has written the car off due to accident damage, flood damage, etc. Salvage titled cars typically sell for 20% to 50% less than “clean” titled cars, for good reason – they almost always have problems, and can be difficult to sell or even insure. It doesn’t hurt to see the title in person either; titles with white-out or scratched off information should set off alarm bells. If a deal sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

I didn't know I had to check the alignment...

7) Personal Inspection – this is obvious, but go over the car with a fine tooth comb (figuratively speaking). You are looking for rust, dents, scratches, transitions in paint color, mismatched body panel gaps, uneven tire wear or other damage. A shiny paint job can be a bad sign – look for evidence that the car was recently repainted (overspray in wheel wells, trunk, door frame, etc). No one wants to spend a lot of money to repaint a car if they’re trying to unload it. Mismatched paint (door to quarter panel, for example) may be a sign of accident damage. “Flat” paint (not as glossy as surrounding areas) may be a sign of body filler. If the seller agrees, use a soft magnet (preferably through a microfiber towel) to check for Bondo. If a fender should be steel and you can’t get a magnet to stick, it may be time to walk away and keep looking.

8 ) Mechanical inspection – this is too lengthy a subject to cover here, since what to look for varies from car to car. It’s always a good idea to have the car checked out by a competent mechanic. Brand specific mechanics are best – don’t take a Volvo to a guy who wrenches on Cadillacs for a living. Walk away from any deals where the owner refuses to let you have the car inspected.

9) Test drive – make sure you take your time here. Look for any problems like:

- Does the car smoke at start up? How about on deceleration?
- Does the car pull to one side?
- How do the brakes feel?
- Where does the clutch grab?
- Any unusual noises?
- How does it feel at idle? Does it accelerate smoothly?
- Does the A/C work? Stereo? Wipers? Lights?
- Any unusual smells? (a sweet smell in the interior can be a sign of leaking coolant from the heater core – just walk away).

10) Can you afford the insurance? This is often overlooked when people shop for a new (used) car. If you’re going from driving a 20 year old Volvo 140 to a 3 year old BMW M3, expect an increase in insurance costs. A BIG, HONKIN’ INCREASE. Depending on your age and record, cars like a Mustang or Camaro may be uninsurable – make sure you know this BEFORE you buy.

Take your time and shop smart. A car is a long term investment, and will last for hundreds of thousands of miles if well cared for. Don’t be afraid to haggle on the price, but remember that the best value is not always the lowest price.

Just a few years back, owning a used car was a hassle when it came time to buy a new one. You could try to sell it yourself by posting an ad online or in the local paper, and hope that an interested buyer would come along. This usually got you more money, but the sales process could take weeks (or even longer if you were selling an unpopular model). On the flip side, you could trade it in on your new vehicle, but most dealerships only offered a fraction of what the internet guides told you it was worth. The choices seemed to be bad (be patient and sell it yourself) or worse (take far less than what your car was worth at a dealer). Times have changed, and the demand for used cars is currently exceeding supply.

This is especially true for used pickup trucks. In late 2007, the average trade in price for a one to five year old pickup was $14,690. In late 2008, that price had fallen to $12,160, a drop of $2,500 in a single year. By the end of 2010, on the other hand, the average price had jumped to nearly $18,000, close to a 50% increase in just two years. Values for used sedans are up as well, but no where near as dramatically as pickup trucks. A used four cylinder Honda Accord was worth about $10,347 at the end of 2008; by 2010, that had increased to $11,985.

Why the change? New car sales have been depressed for the past three years (although they did begin a turn-around in 2010), which means that used vehicles simply aren’t entering the marketplace like they used to. Leasing has also dropped off dramatically (due to tighter credit restrictions), which has a significant impact on the amount of used inventory hitting dealer lots. Also, drivers on shaky financial or employment grounds are holding onto their cars longer, and are shopping for used replacement vehicles instead of new.

What does it all mean? You’ll have an easier time selling a used car these days than at any other point in recent history. You’ll still get more money by selling it on your own, but dealers are more willing to discuss trade in values, especially if you have something they want on their lot. If you’re in the market for a new car, this all plays into your favor; if you’re in the market for a used car, expect to spend more time and money looking for your next ride.

Source: New York Times

Think you’re getting a “lightly used” car, just because you’re buying it from a little old lady? Never heard the Jan & Dean tune, “The Little Old Lady From Pasadena?” Just remember that all those kindly grandmother types may not be what they appear. Take the guy that signed off on my competition license way back when – Les Gaylord was in his seventies then, and looked like any other retiree. You’d mistake him for an easy marque on the track at your own peril, since the guy still had track records at a lot of the SCCA approved tracks in the Western U.S. Lesson learned? Old doesn’t necessarily translate into slow. A tip of the hat goes to Fireball Tim Lawrence for finding this one!

If you have a thing for Fox bodied Mustangs and you’re a fan of Steve Saleen, head on over to Bring A Trailer or eBay for the rundown on what has to be the nicest early Saleen Mustang left in existence. It’s only racked up 7,100 miles, it’s never seen rain or snow, it’s only been through two owners and get this: it’s completely stock. No blower, no upgraded exhaust, no cold air intake; this car is just as it left the Saleen factory in March of 1988. It’s even got the original tires, although I’m not sure I’d want to drive very far (or particularly fast) on them.

Early Saleen Mustangs used stock Ford engines, but modified the chassis and suspension for better handling based on Steve Saleen’s experience as a road racer. If I understand it correctly, that would give this particular car 225 horsepower; that may have been acceptable in 1988, but it’s not exactly on par with contemporary Mustangs. Even the handling couldn’t match a new Mustang, but that’s hardly the point of this car. It belongs in someone’s collection, with driving duties relegated to Mustang shows and classic car events.

There’s no way to tell what the seller’s reserve is, so I can’t even guess on price. Similar vintage Saleen Mustangs typically sell in the $10k to $12k range, but they’ve all got higher mileage and most have been modded to death. If you can snap up this particular example for less than $15,000, I’d call it well bought.

A 2005 911 is a solid used car.

If you’ve ever spent time in Germany, or dealt with German manufacturing companies, you know TÜV. The technical inspection association is sort of a cross between Underwriter’s Laboratories, Consumer Reports, the NHTSA and your state DMV. TÜV certifies everything from electrical appliances to cars, and they’re responsible for the dreaded annual road inspections that German drivers must endure. Unlike America, where the elimination of state inspection programs means that the guy next to you is driving on bald tires, with no brakes, German drivers must maintain their cars. Tires worn? Brake pads in need of replacing? You won’t be driving your car until it’s made safe to operate. What a concept.

As you’d imagine, TÜV also accumulates data on what cars are the most and least reliable. The results come as no surprise to anyone who knows the Germans: the most reliable car, according to TÜV, is the Porsche 911 Type 996, built from 1997 to 2005. The current generation of the Porsche Boxster (Type 987), also managed to rack up a win, as did the Toyota Corolla Verso (a five door hatchback version not sold in the U.S.). Making the list for the very first time was the second generation Toyota Prius, built between 2004 and 2009. Toyota’s Auris (a three or five door hatchback, also based on the Corolla) and RAV4 also scored well in TÜV reliability studies.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, the Kia Carnival finished dead last for reliability, just as it did last year. Ironically, the Carnival is sold in the U.S. as the Kia Sedona, and it’s scores as high in reliability (according to J.D. Power and Associates) as the Honda Odyssey. If I have my plant geography correct, the Carnival is built in Russia, while the Sedona is built in South Korea, which might have a thing or two to do with reliability.

Source: Autoevolution

Sometimes you develop this strange and unholy attraction to things that aren’t good for you. For some people that’s drugs, for others it’s livestock or midget transvestites. For me, it’s mid-80s Alfa Romeo GTV6s. I’m really not sure why; a neighbor in college owned one, and I remember thinking that it was a cool car. Still, they were overpriced, underpowered and not at all known for their reliability, so the GTV never made my “must own” list back then.

As I get older, they somehow appeal to me more. Maybe it’s the car’s unique lines, or maybe it’s the whole Alfa Romeo mystique. One of these days, if the stars align, I’ll be in the right place at the right time to snap one up. If I did something exceptionally benevolent in a past life, perhaps it will even be a Callaway GTV6, like this Craigslist example found by Bring A Trailer.

By the mid 1980s, sales of the GTV6 in the United States had fallen to disappointing levels. To make the car more appealing, Alfa Romeo USA contacted Reeves Callaway about adding a turbocharger system to boost horsepower. Callaway designed an extremely elegant twin turbo system that boosted the stock GTV6 output from 154 horsepower to 230 horsepower, and increased torque from 157 ft lb to 245 ft lb. A grand total of 35 Callaway GTV6s were sold between 1984 and 1986, so even the addition of significantly more horsepower wasn’t enough to boost sales.

The Bring A Trailer find is for sale at a used car dealership in Lodi, New Jersey, so I’d already say “buyer beware”. There are a few other red flags with this particular GTV6, starting with the mileage. The seller claims the odometer reads 18,045 miles, which is bad news no matter how you slice it. If that’s actual mileage, the car hasn’t been driven much, which means it’s been sitting for extended periods of time. If the actual mileage is 118,045, chances are good it’s going to need a considerable amount of work, up to and including new turbos. The second problem (and help me out with this, Alfistas) is the wheels: they look like stock, TRX sized wheels to me, which aren’t correct for a Callaway GTV6. Callaways featured suspension mods, and dumped the stock TRX wheels and tires for BBS, OZ or Speedline wheels fitted with conventionally sized tires. If the wheels are original to the car, it could be a dealer built Callaway GTV6 and not a “genuine” Callaway GTV6.

I’d feel a lot better about the $16,500 asking price if it were from an owner, and not just a used car lot. If the car is in as good a condition as it looks, that may be a fair price if you can get some background on it. Without a documented history, that $16,500 is likely to be the opening salvo in a long and expensive battle with repairs and maintenance costs, destined to end in heartbreak for the new owner.