If you live where winter means snow, now is about the time of year you should be thinking about a switch from summer tires or all season radials to dedicated winter tires. The video below does a good job of illustrating why, but it has one fatal flaw: it compares “summer only” tires, which shouldn’t ever be driven on snow and ice, to dedicated winter tires, which optimize grip on snow and ice, and in low temperatures.

There’s an intermediate step, of course, and that’s all-season tires. Like a Swiss Army knife, all-season tires are better than nothing at all, but they’re still not the performance equal of a dedicated winter tire. Expect all-season radials to perform somewhere in between the summer tires and the winter tires shown in the video below, which isn’t quite good enough in our book.

Winter tires aren’t cheap, but they’re a lot less expensive than having an accident on all-season radials. If you can fit it into the budget, have a set mounted up on steel or cheap alloy wheels, so that changing between summer and winter tires is a twenty minute, do-it-yourself job.

The National Insurance Crime Bureau keeps tab on things like car theft by state without regard to a vehicles insured status. That’s significant, because it looks at ALL car thefts, not just those that were reported to an insurance company. Each year, the NICB publishes a list of the most stolen vehicles in the United States, and the top 10 may come as a surprise.

There aren’t any exotics or luxury cars on the list, and the most valuable car in the top 10 probably doesn’t crack the $10,000 barrier. These aren’t cars stolen to order by gangs who specialize in shipping containers of hot cars to South America; instead, they’re cars that get snatched because they’re easy to steal, or have parts common to a wide range of other vehicles.

There are some benchmarks for the 2011 list. For the first time since 2002, car thieves preferred domestic cars to imports, and Ford had more vehicles in the top ten than any other domestic maker. The top three positions, however, are still held by Japanese automakers, a trend that has remained unchanged since 2000. If there’s good new, it’s this: pending the latest FBI preliminary crime stats, car theft is at its lowest point since 1967.

Which vehicles made this year’s “Hot Wheels” list?

1. 1994 Honda Accord
2. 1995 Honda Civic
3. 1991 Toyota Camry
4. 1999 Chevrolet Pickup (full-size)
5. 1997 Ford F150 Pickup
6. 2004 Dodge Ram Pickup
7. 2000 Dodge Caravan
8. 1994 Acura Integra
9. 2002 Ford Explorer
10. 1999 Ford Taurus

To keep any car safe from theft, the NICB recommends a layered approach to security. A car alarm and steering wheel lock (like The Club) won’t deter a serious thief, but if his choice comes down to someone else’s car with a blinking red light and a bar locked to the steering wheel, versus yours that has neither, which car do you think he’ll choose?

Want complete detail, including state-specific theft listings? Visit the NICB’s website.

May 21, 2011? Ruh-roh... Image: Eli the Bearded

In case you haven’t watched the news lately, the end of the world (at least according to some) is scheduled for this Saturday, May 21. Like most RideLust readers, I don’t think I’ll be sucked to the pearly gates on a pillar of light; instead, I’m planning a rather full weekend of looting and drunken debauchery. That said, now is probably a good time to pass along some car-related tips for the coming rapture. We’re all new to this end-of-the-world business, but it’s my job to think about things like this and pass my knowledge on to our diehard fans. You don’t think you’ll find this stuff on Jalopnik, do you?

Steal Something Practical

Sure, you’ve had your eyes on your neighbor’s Ferrari for a long, long time, but ask yourself this: do you really think a Ferrari owner has led a life free of sin? Besides, how much stolen merchandise can you fit in an F430? How well do you think it’ll handle when the streets run with blood and fire? A much more sensible choice is a good, stout SUV, the bigger the better. Hey, gas is free, so who cares what kind of mileage you’ll be getting?

Stock Up On Gas While The Power’s Still On

All it takes is one overly pious powerplant operator, and it’s lights out for the rest of us. Since you don’t know how long you have until the power goes out, now would be a very good time to make friends with someone who knows how to drive an 18 wheeler. All you need to do is find an abandoned gasoline tanker, and you’re set for eternity, or at least until the end of the month. If that plan doesn’t work out, be sure to fill up all your cars as soon as you, um, acquire them.

Watch For Empty Cars

Here’s another reason not to steal something fast: you never know when you’ll crest a hill, or round a bend, only to find traffic stopped across all three lanes. Now that there’s no such thing as speed enforcement, stacking a stolen 911 Turbo S into a Toyota Avalon seems like a really stupid way to die. If you’re going to go hammer down on a stretch of road, be sure to do a little recon first.

Stock Up On Road Food

Fresh food won’t last long when the lights go out, so stock up on road food like beef jerky and Clif bars as soon as you can. This stuff never goes bad, regardless of any printed expiration dates. Stock up on drinks, too, since it won’t take long for fresh water to be in short supply. Your first instinct may be to grab that 12 pack of Budweiser, but you’re better off stocking up on bottled water and Gatorade first. Besides, why settle for Bud when Hacker Pschorr Oktoberfest is now the same price?

There’s No Such Thing As Too Much Ammo Or Too Much Coffee

Post rapture, do you really think that cash, or even gold, will have much value? On the other hand, coffee, cigarettes and ammunition will be the new currencies, and I wouldn’t count on anyone taking credit cards. Whatever ride you decide on, make sure it’s got room for plenty of ammo, and always travel with something to barter. Also, it’s helpful to remember that bullets deflect up through auto glass, so always keep your head down in a motorized firefight.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t remind you that stealing is illegal, as is looting and the types of general mayhem referenced above. If Saturday really is the end of the world (and I’m betting it won’t be), then no one will care if you follow this advice. If it isn’t, then let me remind you that this post is for entertainment purposes only, and in no way is meant to encourage illegal activities.

I’ll be honest, there is a very distinct possibility that I’ve posted this before, but quite honestly I don’t care because this video should be watched by anyone who drives a car. Rear differentials for some reason seem to confuse and mystify people as to what they do and how they function. Sure you hear people talk about them, but in reality few individuals actually understand them. The basic jist of a rear differential is to modulate the speed of the rear wheels so that an even rotation occurs between the tires when your automobile goes around a corner. This video not only shows, but explains exactly how a differential works in a manner that’s clear, concise and easy to understand. Wouldn’t it be great if everything could be explained this easily? Click through for the video.

In Florida, there's a 1 in 4 chance she doesn't have insurance.

Let’s face it – car insurance is one of those things you drop money on but hope to never use. When it comes to insurance, especially in today’s litigation-happy society, there really is no such thing as “too much coverage”; the problem comes with balancing what you’ll need for a worst case scenario versus what you can afford based on your own personal budget. A lot of factors go into determining what companies charge you for insurance, and age, sex and driving record are no longer the sole factors in determining what you’re likely to pay. In fact, your credit record and credit history is a lot more likely to set your rates these days than a ticket for five miles per hour over the speed limit. Want to know what the most expensive states are for car insurance? Read on to find out.

First, some background: the list, from Wallet Pop, compiles average quotes from six providers per state for a 40 year old male driver with a 12 mile commute. The dollar amounts shown are for yearly coverage, based on $100k cover for the driver and $50k coverage for property damage.

1. Michigan, $2,541
2. Louisiana, $2,453
3. Oklahoma, $2,197
4. Montana, $2,190
5. Washington, DC, $2,146
6. California, $1,991
7. Mississippi, $1,896
8. New Mexico, $1,896
9. Arkansas, $1,836
10. Maryland, $1,807

The cheapest state? That would be Vermont, where the same level of coverage will set you back just $995 per year. Why are some states so high priced? Much of it has to do with uninsured motorists; get hit by one, and it’s your insurance company paying the bills even if you’re not at fault. Of the five states with the highest number of uninsured motorists, three (New Mexico, Mississippi and Oklahoma) also make the list for most expensive insurance.

Source: Wallet Pop

Yuck.  Photo courtesy of The Hookups.

There are few things in life more frustratingly debilitating for an auto enthusiast than motion sickness.  This mercilessly vile condition is caused by a disconnect between motion sensed by your inner ear and a lack of motion perceived by your eyes (often due to reading).  This confuses the brain which causes many of us to go green in the gills and then inevitably become the subject of an embarrassing story.

Motion sickness is especially, and understandably, tough on rally co-drivers who are responsible for navigating a car from their pace notes in daytime and at night, through twists and turns, and across jumps, gravel and other gut-churning terrain.  And even some of the best drivers on this planet are susceptible to the need, the need to heave.

Sadly, motion sickness can strike at any time, as people who could usually write a dissertation in a speeding Caterham Seven can suddenly and surprisingly become deathly ill while reading a map of the interstate.  But don’t let a weak stomach hold you back from your competitive dreams – fear not, I have you covered.  Whether you’re just starting out as a co-driver in a stage rally, competing in a TSD, or are the designated navigator on a lengthy road trip, these tips from experienced rally co-drivers will help you keep the bile down.

SUPPLEMENTS / MEDICATION

**Please note that I am not a doctor.  If you’re interested in pursuing the following suggestions, please consult with your doctor first about any possible side effects or drug interactions.**

Many co-drivers recommend ingesting some form of ginger before and during a rally to prevent and alleviate any nausea (even Mythbusters concurs).  Ginger supplements (pills) are easily found at stores like Whole Foods, although chewing raw ginger pieces – if you can stand it – seems to be the purest and most effective option.

If you don’t like the taste of ginger, besides the pills, some grocery stores also sell crystallized ginger coated in sugar that you can eat without incinerating your mouth.  Ginger snaps, ginger candy and ginger ale are also recommended but since most varieties contain trace amounts of ginger, the other alternatives mentioned are a safer bet.  My favorite way to consume a lot of ginger is to make ginger tea.  Just boil up a good amount of thinly sliced ginger in water for 10 minutes and add honey to taste.

Now would be an acceptable time to puke.

Other OTC recommendations are Children’s Benadryl and Bonine, which is like a non-drowsy Dramamine.  A commonly used prescription motion sickness preventative is a scopolamine patch.  You put it on behind your ear several hours before your event starts, and it lasts for several days.

Keep in mind that whichever medication or treatment you decide to use, make sure to test it out well in advance of your event.  You never know if it could make you drowsy or affect you in other negative ways.

FOOD

Limit your greasy food intake the evening before and definitely just prior to your event.  However, don’t be afraid to eat altogether as you want to keep your blood sugar level from dropping to the point you get a headache or feel general malaise.  Eat small, preferably bland meals before the drive and bring healthy, innocuous snacks along like granola bars, crackers, and bananas.  Smells can trigger a headache or nausea so don’t eat anything pungent while traveling.

Keeping yourself hydrated with plenty of water (bottled or via CamelBak) will help stave off headaches and nausea.  Note that some people advise against carbonated drinks, claiming that they can upset stomachs, while others encourage their consumption.  I leave it up to you to decide.  But everyone agrees that alcohol is a big no-no – even on the night before.  Sorry!

GEAR

Dress as comfortably as you can.  Tight clothing can induce headaches and increase your discomfort.  If you’re feeling restricted, try to reduce the feeling safely (without removing any safety gear).

One accessory that is popular among co-drivers, sailors and airline pilots to prevent motion sickness is an acupressure wristband.  There’s a type called Sea-Band that is commonly used.  It basically applies direct pressure to a certain point in your wrist, which supposedly alleviates nausea.

OTHER TIPS

If at all possible, avoid being navigator if you’re coming down with something.  Even if you’re lucky enough to possess an iron stomach, a cold can easily invite motion sickness.

If you’re starting to feel queasy, get as much ventilation as you can.  Letting in cool, fresh air will help bring your temperature down and eliminate any smells that could be triggering your nausea.  Breathe slowly and deeply.  Also, looking up at the horizon whenever possible will help your body resolve the disjunction between the motion you sense and the lack of motion being registered by your eyes.

However, if you’re downright certain that, despite all of the above, you will be tossing your cookies, bring some Ziploc bags along so that you don’t have to stop the driver to yak.  Ziploc bags keep it all safely in one place, and they’re see-through too so you can gross out your driver (or the passengers).  For maximum effect, drink something brightly colored beforehand to weird out everyone in the car.

Finally, if you’re prone to vomiting, consider an open-face helmet!

Photo courtesy of Race-Dezert.com

Got any tips of your own?

** Special thanks to pro rally co-driver Dave Shindle for several invaluable suggestions. **

I never thought I’d be doing this, but yesterday I found myself trying to hyper-mileage my 2006 Dodge Magnum SRT8. There I was in a 425 hp, 170 mph hot rod wagon trying to shift before the tachometer reached 2500 rpm. It’s ridiculous I know, but after paying just over $60.00 for a premium tank of fuel just a few minutes earlier, my thought was that I wanted it to last. At the station by my house premium fuel was $4.01 per gallon, and I’ll be honest, it’s getting to the point where it’s starting to hurt. I’m also finding myself doing things that I’ve never done before. For instance, I just purchased new tires for my Maggie, but instead of going with a full-on max performance summer tire with a low tread rating, I instead opted for a max-performance all season, with a treadwear rating of 540AA or 50,000 miles. First off there’s less rolling resistance and secondly, they won’t be bologna skins after 15,000 miles.

When it comes to cars I was always the guy that said, “Screw it! I’ll pay what I need to pay!”, however that’s becoming harder and harder to do these days. Don’t get me wrong, I won’t be trading in my uber wagon just yet, but I’d be lying if I said I didn’t notice the financial hit. I know we’ve talked about it, but some sources are saying that fuel may exceed $4.50 per gallon by the end of the summer. Honestly, if that happens, I’ll be running out to buy a used motorcycle and parking everything else. So… anyone got a used Kawasaki KLR 650 for sale?

I’ve traversed the United States from coast to coast more times then I care to remember. I’ve logged thousands upon thousands of miles on my cars, stayed in some of the best (and worst) hotels, and dined in greasy spoon diners that served food that was sometimes unrecognizable. If you drive and I mean really drive, than this comes with the territory. Throughout my travels though one thing has always remained constant – a good selection of road trip food. You see when I’m motoring down the super-slabs and back roads of America I don’t like to stop. I mean sure, there are times one must make that emergency pit stop, but for the most part I only stop when I run low on fuel or break down, which is about every 4 hours depending on the car. Regardless, one thing that I always bring with me to fuel my body is a nice selection of road trip food. Keep in mind that at this point in my career I consider myself to be a professional (at what is still up for debate, but whatever) and because of this I’ve put together a road trip menu that should get everyone out there from one coast to the next safely with their bowels intact.

• DRINKS: Water / Red Bull / Diet Coke / Gatorade / Coffee

Drinks are probably the most important things you can have with you on an extended road trip. I’ve been in some pretty remote places where I could do without food, but drinks, no way. For starters you must always carry a few bottles of water. It will keep you hydrated, it tastes good and you can dump it in your radiator if your trusted steed overheats. Second would be a few cans of Red Bull or your favorite energy drink. These are good for a quick boost of energy as they contain loads of sugar and caffeine, but you’ll crash hard when it wears off. If you start drinking these to stay awake then be warned, as that signifies that your beat, so you’d best start looking for a hotel or a rest area. Diet Coke is always a favorite as well. It should satisfy your craving for something carbonated, while giving you a quick sugar rush at the same time. Gatorade is next, and is always good to have on hand. It will also keep you hydrated and is a nice alternative to water. Lastly we have coffee. Now this is a tricky one because for some, coffee can have some ill effects on the ole’ digestive tract which may result in unwanted pit stops. Take caution before sucking down a cup of that truck stop special blend, because it can mess you up something fierce if you’re not careful.

• FOOD: Beef Jerky / Keebler Fudge Strip Cookies / Powder Donuts / Cliff Bars / Skittles

Food is another item that’s always handy to have around, but the last thing you want to be doing is knocking back a pizza while you’re cruising at 80 mph. Finger foods are definitively the best way to go. Beef Jerky is obviously the number one choice as it’s been a favorite of road trippers since the dawn of time. Hell, even if you don’t like it you need to have a bag in your car for good luck – sorry, but that’s just the way it is. Other items include fruit, donuts (powdered or chocolate), energy bars, candy (Swedish fish rock by the way) and perhaps some cookies. Just remember, the more you eat the more you crap, so try not to go buck wild on any of these.

Other notable items that you may want to include are Skittles, Keebler Fudge Stripe Cookies and or Chips Ahoy. Now, I understand that there are those of you that will criticize this list due to the fact that it’s not filled with nuts, twigs and or any other substances that mother earth created. Listen; if veggies are your thing then go for it. The same goes for granola, hummus, trail mix and or any other food that they make Birkenstock sandals out of. Oh… and one last thing, remember that as soon as you get on the road that your first stop should always be a McD’s breakfast – may sure though that you can see the grease coming through the bag as that lets you know it’s really good.

Peace out and happy travels.

Unless it's part of a Halloween costume, pass.

Nowhere on earth does the old cliche “you get what you pay for” ring truer than when it comes to motorcycle helmets. There are safe motorcycle helmets, there are cheap motorcycle helmets and there are comfortable motorcycle helmets, so go ahead and pick any two of those three choices. Want one that’s safe, comfortable and affordable? Good luck with that, because in all my years of riding, I haven’t found one.

I’m going to start with some advice (and a disclaimer) up front. First, I don’t recommend anything other than a full face helmet. They’re structurally stronger than an open face helmet, and if you should happen to find yourself skipping across pavement face first (like I did), you’ll come to appreciate the wisdom of your choice. Are they uncomfortable in the summer heat? Not if you spend the money on a helmet that vents properly, and even a little sweat is a whole lot more pleasant than skin grafts. Call me weird, but I don’t want a plastic surgeon making me a new chin or nose from ass skin.

Now for the disclaimer: I’m not going to go into the whole DOT versus Snell debate here, because it’s been covered in as much detail as you’d care to read by experts like Dexter Ford. To vastly over-simplify the issue, DOT approval is simpler and far less expensive to obtain. Snell approvals are much harder to obtain, since they test helmet strength to more rigorous standards; that turns out to be less than a good thing, since Snell tested helmet strength and not shock absorbency, at least until the M2010 standard. Snell certified helmets that have the M2010 label now meet a baseline for both impact resistance and shock absorbency, and this standard changes with the size of the helmet (since a bigger head weighs more). Want to be as safe as you possibly can be? Shop for a motorcycle helmet that meets Snell M2010 standards, not just DOT standards.

Never buy a helemt for the graphics, unless you try it on first.

The first thing you want to look for in a helmet is fit. No two people have the same size and shape head, so the most important thing is trying on as many helmets as you can. You see the first problem up front: if you mail order a helmet to get the lowest possible price, you can’t try it on. What if there’s a similar one from a different brand that fits much better? Unlike shoes, motorcycle helmets don’t “break in”; if it isn’t comfortable in the store, it sure as hell isn’t going to be comfortable two hours into a ride. Take my old AGV, for example: I bought it because it was safe and cheap, but rides longer than an hour were marathon torture sessions. Two hours in the saddle was excruciating, and after three I was ready to confess to anything (“I shot Kennedy, even though I wasn’t born yet. Just get this damn helmet off my head.”), so I’m speaking from experience here. Go to your local retailer and try on helmets before you buy one. If you can, support the local guy, too – he may cost a few bucks more, but he’s also going to be there on a Saturday when you suddenly need a new tire or 530 chain. Remember, there’s an important difference between “price” and “value”.

How do you know if the helmet fits? It should be snug getting it on over your ears, but not uncomfortably tight. With the helmet on and loosely strapped, try rotating your head from side to side; if the helmet moves, it’s too loose and you need a smaller size or a different shape. If it doesn’t move, but it feels like there’s a railroad spike being driven into your forehead, chances are good it’s too small. Try the next size up, or try a different helmet shape (which is another reason to patronize your local dealer, since they can generally recommend what helmets will fit the shape of your head the best). Once you have the right size and shape helmet, try to cinch down the strap as tight as you’ll wear it. Does it pinch? Can you fasten the strap with gloves on? Can you snap or tuck in the excess length of nylon webbing? Like the rest of the helmet, if the strap isn’t comfortable in the shop, it’s really going to suck out on the road.

Good helmets have great ventilation, the key to happy summer riding.

As for brands, I currently favor Shoei over the others. I’ve owned Arai helmets in the past, and they’re very good but near the top end of the price range. Shoeis are a little bit quieter, the shield changing mechanism is simpler than the one used by Arai and they’re a little bit less money than Arai helmets (but still expensive). Over the years, I’ve had helmets from AGV (cheap and safe, but uncomfortable), Kiwi (cheap and comfortable, but I wouldn’t want to crash in it) and Nolan (see Kiwi) to name just a few. Good helmets cost serious money for a reason – their fit and finish is top notch, their ventilation is functional and well designed, their face shields are optically clear, their gaskets seal well and they’ll stand up to years of use.

Unless you know the helmet’s history, avoid buying used helmets. First, all helmets have a finite shelf life, and manufacturers will generally tell you that’s around five years. Their ass is on the line if someone gets hurt wearing one of their lids, so they err on the side of caution. As for me, I’ll replace helmets under normal use every 10 years or so, but don’t consider that an “expert’s recommendation”, especially since I baby my helmets when I’m not wearing them. If a helmet is crashed, or even dropped on the ground, bin it. Even a fall from a handlebar or seat can be enough to crack a shell if the helmet lands on a rock or sharp object. There are places you can save money and there are places you need to spend money; protecting your head definitely counts as one of the latter.

Once you’ve bought a new helmet, treat it with respect. Buy a good helmet bag (I like the fleece lined, heavy-duty nylon ones myself) and store the helmet there when not in use. Keep it out of direct sunlight, since UV isn’t good for the components that make up a helmet. I always let mine air out overnight when I get back from a ride, so mine never seem to build up the funk associated with old helmets. If yours does, try one of the commercial helmet cleaners and deodorizers, but NEVER us stuff like Lysol or other harsh cleaners and disinfectants. Likewise, don’t store your helmet around paint or gasoline, since solvents can attack a helmet’s foam lining. Think “cool, dry place away from rodents” and you get the picture.

No matter how much money you do spend on a helmet, it will be much less than a visit to the emergency room, and it will be exponentially less than any kind of reconstructive surgery. No single piece of riding gear is more important, so take the time to do a little research before you buy. Feel free to hit me up with any questions on the topic.

My dog possesses a remarkable talent – the ability to projectile vomit. I’d put him up against any grade schooler or member of GWAR in terms of quantity, color and surprise factor. My dog will do it at any time most inconvenient for me – while I’m eating dinner, when I’m walking him past a school bus full of kids stopped at a red light, on my pillow at 3 a.m. – you name it. I’m a conscientious dog owner and had the vet check him out numerous times, and there’s never anything wrong with him. Normal dogs vomit every now and then – he just does so like the Bellagio fountains.

As car rides are one of my dog’s hallowed activities, I was rather concerned that the back of my WRX would wind up looking like a frat house bathroom. My car has cloth seats and although my dog will happily “clean up” after himself, his vomit leaves stains and odors that linger. Additionally, as those of us with cloth seats know, dog hair sticks to cloth like Velcro, which is particularly annoying for me as my dog is white and the interior of my car is black. Suffice it to say, after my dog enjoyed a few trips in the WRX, I did some research on preventative measures, which I detail below.  Please note that these are my own recommendations and I did not receive any compensation from the manufacturers listed.

To protect your car’s fabrics from vomit, slobber and any other fluids, my first suggestion is to spray down the interior fabrics with a water-repellent solution. I personally use 303 High-Tech Fabric Guard, which was recommended on a number of detailing forums for potential high mess situations.  Often used for waterproofing and protecting convertible tops, this spray adds a coat to fabrics that causes liquids to bead on impact – making it easy to wipe up a mess. Pick a nice, sunny day to do this and leave your windows open to facilitate the drying process. Make sure your car is immaculate before you spray, and test the solution first on a small area for color fastness before applying it to your entire car. The spray should be reapplied every few months for maximum protection.

I picked up a set of floor liners from Weathertech that were specially fitted to my car. I wanted the floor of my car to be as protected as possible from not only dog vomit, but road salt, mud, sand, and spilled coffee. The floor liners completely cover the floor of the car, preventing all of the above from making any contact. I also noticed that the stock fabric mats collected vast amounts of dog hair, requiring almost daily vacuuming to avoid eyesore status. The floor liners resulted in a definite improvement in dog hair accumulation. All-weather/rubber mats should also do the trick. Just make sure to empty out your mats regularly to keep the car spotless.

Another suggestion is a decent car seat cover. A good, waterproof, seat cover will keep your seats dry, and mostly dirt and hair-free. In my opinion, the best kind looks like a hammock as it stretches from the back of the front seats to the back of the rear seats.

I’ve used the versions that only cover the back seat, from the headrest to the bottom of the seat, and I don’t recommend them as they don’t protect the floor area. The usual places where I check for dog accessories were charging up to $100 for hammock covers, but I found this $14 cover on Amazon which I’ve been using for almost 2 years. It’s waterproof and extremely durable. My dog is about 35 lbs, but if you have a heavier dog, or multiple dogs, the straps holding it in place may need to be replaced with something sturdier – an easy task for anyone with a basic knowledge of sewing.  But if you own a Clifford-sized dog, you may want to check out a site like Orvis, which sells premium, but very sturdy canine travel accessories.  The cover I have has saved the WRX many times and without a doubt is the best $14 I’ve ever spent.

When he’s good, I let him drive home.

My suggestions will get your car much cleaner, but mess is inevitable. Nothing will completely dog-proof your car, save leaving your best friend at home, and you don’t want to do that.  To keep your car consistently clean, you will have to do some regular maintenance. Keep a bottle of upholstery cleaner (I like the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover for upholstery), glass cleaner and some paper towels in the trunk. I bought a pack of lint rollers from a warehouse club and keep one in the trunk and one in the glove compartment (note – 3M sells a “Fur Fighter” product which I’ve tried, but it’s not as effective as a lint roller nor is it particularly cheap). I also store a few bottles of water in the trunk for emergencies, which have also come in handy for cleaning muddy paws and unexpected interior disasters.

If your car gets stinky, a little Febreze spray will get the smell out, but you shouldn’t have that problem as long as you shake out the seat cover once a week, hose it off when necessary, and do a little preventative vacuuming of hair and dander. As long as hair isn’t deeply embedded in the fabric, a standard car vacuum/dustbuster will be sufficient to remove it. If hair does get trapped in the fabric, I find that this static hair remover from Meguiars works wonders at dislodging hair. But if your car looks like a hair tornado just whipped through it, and you don’t have an outlet in your garage for a hose-equipped home vacuum, your best bet is to use a gas station vacuum. With a few bucks in quarters, you will get everything out.

Luckily, I have never experienced anything worse than dog hair and puke in my car (which, thankfully, did not make seat contact thanks to my hammock cover).  But for those who have seen the abyss, wet/dry vacuum cleaners may be a good investment.  At my old apartment, I had white, wall-to-wall carpeting, and one terrible evening, I got home from work to a canine diarrhea disaster.  I drove to a home goods store in a panic and picked up a Bissell SpotBot, which got all of the of the stains and smells out.  That device is a godsend.  If your car has a cloth interior and you seriously think that you will be encountering especially vile liquid messes, look into a deep cleaning, wet/dry vacuum cleaner. There are such vacuums sold specifically for cars, but I think even a regular one would be extremely helpful if you have access to an outlet.  If all else fails, of course, call a detailer.

I hope you find these tips useful. At the very least, a seat cover, fabric guard spray, and regular vacuuming will further harmonious dog and human coexistence.  Feel free to make any suggestions of your own – as every day brings a new mess, I know that your fellow dog-owners will appreciate them.